As it turns out, a trip up Rainier was not in the cards for this season. Another case of life getting in the way of living. I am not too disappointed though - I know that I could have made it. Chris F, my good friend and tent mate, completed a successful summit last week - congratulations! In talking to him, it's clear that the Baker ascent we both tried in June was far more strenuous and difficult than the Disappointment Cleaver route on Rainier at this time of year.
The summer summit season at Rainier is brief, and this year it is even shorter than usual. The lack of snow + unusually warm temperatures are having a bad effect on the more common routes. As the snow melts, the crevasses get wider, and the route gets longer as you have to go around crevasses that earlier in the season you could have jumped over (yes, jumping over a 2-3 foot crevasses is not that unusual). So it is very doubtful that there will be another window of opportunity for me this year.
Now it's a matter of bagging some alternate, fun, and challenging peaks over the rest of the summer. Three Fingers, The Brothers, Mt Ellinor, Mt Stuart, Granite Mountain... There are many to choose from.
In the meantime, I thought it would be fun to share a few more pictures from the epic Boulder Glacier climb up Mt Baker that we did. These shots are from Chris' camera - he is a hell of a photographer. Thanks, buddy, for sharing the pics and letting me post them here.
-Scott
| Chris & Dan. The three of us were a single rope team. I wouldn't want to be tied to anyone else on a big mountain. |
| Another perspective on the rock wall that we scrambled up during the first day. That's me in the middle, with the little orange sack hanging from my pack. |
| After the rock scramble, we were on this ridge with a nice view of Baker Lake far below |
| Taking a break on the first day. This is where we ultimately ended up making base camp. |
| Just a couple guys hanging out in the mountains. The smiles are genuine - this is fun stuff. |
| The view from the inside of our tent, showing Baker Lake and the remote wilderness of the North Cascades. Not too bad, right? |
| the view of Mt Shuksan - again from the tent site |
| Brief break, early Sunday morning. The moon had been up for a while but the sun was not quite up yet. This was probably around 4:30am |
| End of one of the cleavers we passed on the way up. you can see the crevasses of Boulder Glacier on the other side. See the face in the rock? |
| This is how far away you are when you are on a 3-man team using a 60-meter rope |
| And here's a view in the other direction, showing how the teams were zigzagging up the slope. You can clearly see the glissade path that we took on the way back down. |
| Sun is up! |
| On the way back down, postholing, and trying not to fall. |
| Over the edge, on the way down. If you look closely, you can see the belay device with the ropes through it, in between my hands. |

Kudos to Chris for such great candid shots! You guys look like you're having a blast :) It's too bad that Rainier didn't work out this year, but I can't wait to see what else the summer brings! I'm glad you're feeling good about your abilities -- you've worked hard to get to the place you're at now. Love you!
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